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Information On Spark Plugs

Today I am added information on Spark Plugs. Lately, I have notice, when you look for information on the Internet on a subject using a search engines, you get more advertisement and links to other sites that has nothing to do on what you looking. Therefore, here is my version of what a website should do for people looking for information they need and get what they are looking for. You can thank the NGK.com website for most of this information and if you need more you can go to http://www.ngk.com

Spark Plugs

There are different brands of spark plugs, including E3 Spark Plugs, NGK, Champion, Bosch, ACDelco, Autolite, ACCEL, Motorcraft, and there are many more! Most of them are made somewhat he same but are made from different material and construction design.

Spark Plug Basics

The primary function of the spark plug is to ignite the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber under any operating condition. Spark plugs provide a path for electrical energy from the ignition coil to create a spark used to ignite the air-fuel mixture. A sufficient voltage must be supplied by the ignition system to spark across the spark plug gap.

Spark Plugs Heat Rating

The spark plug firing temperature must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. A number indicates the heat rating of a spark plug the lower numbers indicate a hotter spark plug, higher numbers indicate a colder spark plug.

The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator end. A hot type spark plug has a longer insulator end. The insulator end of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator end to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator end of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner. The proper heat range must be carefully selected for the correct spark plug thermal performance and that why you need the use what the car manufacture requires under normal conditions. If the heat range is not optimal, then serious trouble can be the result.

Causes of Carbon Fouling:

  • Continuous low speed driving and/or short trips.
  • Spark plug heat range too cold
  • Air-fuel mixture too rich
  • Reduced compression and oil usage due to worn piston rings / cylinder walls
  • Over-retarded ignition timing
  • Ignition system deterioration

Pre-delivery fouling

Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature. Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator end when the self-cleaning temperature is not reached. If the spark plug heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the spark plug end temperature that stays below normal will cause carbon deposits to accumulate on the insulator end. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator end to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator end can be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.

Causes of Overheating:

  • Spark plug heat range too hot
  • Insufficient tightening torque and/or no gasket
  • Over-advanced ignition timing
  • Fuel octane rating too low (knock is present)
  • Excessively lean air-fuel mixture
  • Excessive combustion chamber deposits
  • Continuous driving under excessively heavy load
  • Insufficient engine cooling or lubrication

If you select a heat, range that is too hot it may cause spark plug overheating. Overheating will cause the electrodes to wear quickly and can lead to pre-ignition. Pre-ignition occurs when the air-fuel mixture is ignited by a hot object/area in the combustion chamber before the timed spark event occurs. Pre-ignition will dramatically raise the cylinder temperature and pressure and can cause serious and expensive engine damage. When inspecting a spark plug that has experienced overheating or pre-ignition, blistering on the ceramic insulator and/or melted electrodes.

Some factors to consider in selecting the proper heat range spark plug

Many external influences can affect the operating temperature of a spark plug.  The following is a brief list to consider in avoiding reduced performance and/or expensive engine damage.

Engine Speed and Load

  • If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
  • Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.

Air-Fuel Mixture

  • Excessively rich air-fuel mixtures can cause the plug tip temperatures to decrease and carbon deposits to accumulate, possibly causing fouling and misfires.
  • Excessively lean air-fuel mixtures can cause the cylinder and plug temperatures to increase, possibly resulting in knock and/or pre-ignition.  This may cause damage to the spark plug and/or seriously damage the engine.
  • If an air-fuel ratio meter or gas analyzer is not available, it will be necessary to visually inspect the spark plugs frequently during the tuning process to determine the proper air-fuel mixture.

Fuel Type / Quality

  • Low quality and/or low octane fuel can cause knock, which will elevate cylinder temperatures.  The increased cylinder temperature will cause the temperature of the combustion chamber components (spark plug, valves, piston, etc.) to rise, and will lead to pre-ignition if the knock is uncontrolled.
  • When using an ethanol blend fuel with high ethanol content in high performance applications, a colder heat range may be necessary. The spark timing can be advanced further because ethanol blend fuel has a higher resistance to knock (higher octane). Due to the decreased knock, there will be less audible “warning” from knock before the spark plug overheats and pre-ignites. Some types of fuel additives in lower quality fuels can cause spark plug deposits that can lead to misfires, pre-ignition, etc.

Ignition Timing

  • Advancing ignition timing by 10° will cause the spark plug tip temperature to increase by approximately 70° to 100°C.
  • A colder heat range spark plug may be necessary if the ignition timing has been advanced to near the knock level. Higher cylinder temperatures near the knock level will bring the spark plug firing end temperature closer to the pre-ignition range.

Compression Ratio

  • Significantly increasing the static/dynamic compression ratio will increase cylinder pressures and the octane requirement of the engine. Knock may occur more easily. If the engine is operated near the knock level, a colder heat range spark plug may be necessary due to the resulting increased cylinder temperatures.

Forced Induction (Turbocharged, Supercharged)

  • A colder heat range spark plug may be necessary due to the increased cylinder temperature as boost pressure (manifold pressure) and subsequent cylinder pressure and temperature increase.

Ambient Air Temperature / Humidity

  • As the air temperature or humidity decreases, the air density increases, requiring a richer air-fuel mixture. If the air-fuel mixture is not properly richened, and the mixture is too lean, higher cylinder pressures / temperatures, knocking, and the subsequent increase in the spark plug tip temperatures can result.
  • As the air temperature or humidity increases, the air density decreases, requiring a leaner air-fuel mixture. If the air-fuel mixture is too rich, decreased performance and/or carbon fouling can result.

Barometric Pressure / Altitude

  • Air (atmospheric) pressure and cylinder pressure decrease as altitude increases. As a result, spark plug tip temperature will also decrease.
  • Fouling can occur more easily if the air-fuel mixture is not adjusted to compensate for the altitude. Higher altitude = less air = less fuel.

Types of Abnormal Combustion

Pre-ignition

  • Pre-ignition occurs when a hot object ignites the air-fuel mixture / area in the combustion chamber before the timed spark event occurs.
  • When the spark plug firing end (tip) temperature exceeds 800°C, pre-ignition originating from the overheated insulator ceramic can occur.
  • Is most often the caused by the wrong (too hot) heat range spark plug, and/or over-advanced ignition timing. An improperly installed (insufficient torque) spark plug can also result in pre-ignition due to inadequate heat transfer.
  • Pre-ignition will dramatically raise the cylinder temperature and pressure and can melt and hole pistons, burn valves, etc.

Knock

  • Occurs when the pressure from a flame front originating from the spark plug spontaneously ignites part of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber away from the spark plug. The two colliding flame fronts contribute to the “knocking” sound.
  • Knock occurs more frequently when using low octane fuel. Low octane fuel has a low resistance to knock (low resistance to ignition)
  • Knock is related to ignition timing. (Knock is sometimes referred to as “Spark-knock”.)  Retarding the ignition timing will reduce knock.
  • Heavy knock often leads to pre-ignition.
  • Heavy knock can cause breakage and/or erosion of combustion chamber components.
  • Knock is sometimes referred to as “ping” or “detonation”.

Misfires

A misfire occurs when the spark travels the path of least resistance instead of jumping across the gap. Misfires can be caused by the following:

    1. Carbon fouling
    2. Worn or deteriorated ignition system components
    3. Too large of gap size
    4. Spark timing excessively advanced or retarded
    5. Damaged spark plugs (cracked insulator, melted electrodes, etc)
    6. Mismatched ignition system components (plug resistance / wire resistance, ignition coils / igniter modules, etc.)
    7. Insufficient coil primary and/or secondary voltage – voltage required to jump the spark plug gap higher than coil output
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Engine Management (Oxygen Sensor)

I am adding information on Engine Management System component (The Oxygen Sensor) This information is from WELLS/BOSCH training. The oxygen sensors is located on the exhaust pipe before or after the vehicle’s catalytic converter. Some vehicles have two and others may have four oxygen sensor installed, depends on the manufacture. The Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (OBDII) will give the location of the failed sensor. The trouble codes will read as Bank 1 or 2 and Sensor 1 or 2, example; P0130 -Oxygen Sensor circuit malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine where the number #1 cylinder is located and bank 2 is the opposite side of #1 cylinder. The sensor 1 is located before the vehicle’s catalytic converter and sensor 2 is located after the catalytic converter. By using the Bank 1 or 2 system makes it is easy to locate which side your failed sensor is on. Because some vehicle engine are position front to back on rear wheel drive vehicles which the sensor will be on left or right side of the engine. But on the transverse engine are position left to right on front wheel drive vehicles the sensor will be either on the front side or the back side of the engine. You can go to your local auto parts store, they can tell you what side your #1 cylinder is on.

Oxygen Sensor function: The oxygen sensor sends a signal to the engine computer based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. This signal is used by the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to adjust the air/fuel mixture to the optimum level to maintain catalyst efficiency and longevity. Properly functioning oxygen sensors are important when it comes to vehicle’s fuel efficiency and reducing harmful exhaust emissions. The oxygen sensor is the primary reading for the (ECU) to use for adjusting your air/fuel mixture after the oxygen sensors become active.

Failure Symptoms: Check engine light, vehicle fails an emissions test, damaged catalytic converter, poor fuel mileage, engine runs rough, engine surging or sluggish performance.

Other Information: Other things that can cause a oxygen sensor to fail is contaminated from excessive oil consumption, antifreeze coolant leak, and some over-the-counter fuel additives and even poor gasoline can kill an oxygen sensor and that why you should the right octane and quality gasoline for your vehicle. With exhaust contaminants that accumulate on the sensor can reduce the sensor’s ability to respond quickly to changes in air/fuel mixture. Individuals with some mechanical background can easily check the discoloration on the tip on the oxygen sensor by removing the oxygen sensor from exhaust pipe and inspecting it and use the following:

  • Light brown and Clean – normal
  • White or Reddish – non-oxygen sensor safe Fuel Additives. Check – fuel supply.
  • Light colored and grainy coating - antifreeze enter the combustion chamber. Check – cracked engine block, cylinder head or intake manifold, faulty intake or head gasket.
  • Dark brown – high engine oil consumption. Check – worn engine components, valve guides, piston rings, gaskets, etc.

Note: You can buy a  socket that fit over the oxygen sensor that has a cut on one side for the wire pigtail connector without damaging it. Caution! the sensor may be “HOT” so make sure the sensor is “COOL” enough to handle.

(Oxygen Sensor) Diagnostic Trouble Codes (OBD II) – Do to multiple codes that oxygen sensor failures can have, it will be better to go to your local auto part store or mechanic repair shop to get the correct code.

By: MDHResources.com

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